I’m getting to the point where I’m feeling more comfortable with adjusting my patterns and grading patterns.
A lot of that comfort has come from a combination of reading and re-reading everything I can get my hands on about the subject, and then just sitting down with some sacrificial fabric, and trying things out. Sewing is all about trial and error, I’ve found!
Some books that felt too advanced for me, have become easier to understand over time. One of these was Sewing for Plus Sizes. There is some great info in there on selecting flattering designs for larger women, how to select a pattern that will compliment a large frame (and why that mightn’t work on a smaller frame) and how to grade a pattern without throwing all the proportions off. I wish it had a thousand more images, but the info is solid.
I find it a little frustrating that plus size seamstresses must learn advanced techniques right off the bat in order to get anything to fit right.
As I mentioned earlier, one of the biggest lessons I’ve learned from all my projects so far is to NEVER use your bust measurement to find a pattern! That will result in overly-wide necklines for your shoulders and things that just want to fall off you everywhere else but your bust!
What lessons have you learned in fitting for a fuller figure?